After parting ways with our friends, we continued to move the boat South, sailing as much as possible of the 136 miles back to La Paz. At 2 pm each day we’d look at how much progress we had made and figure out where we would stop for the evening.
Dead Puffer Beach – 28 miles South
An East wind 5-10k pushed us South on a beam reach to an unnamed anchorage near Agua Verde. Along the way we saw three unique whale sightings. We were hopeful for a fish dinner, but no such luck. By mid afternoon we pulled into the lonely anchorage.
After exploring the shore of this cove we found death. Dead puffer fish graced the beach, dead crabs, dead everything. It was a very rocky shoreline with a single windmill peaking out of the deep valley. Amidst the rocks, driftwood, dead puffers and seashells we decided to make a beach side campfire. As the two of us sat together soaking in the fiery glow, we decided to give this bay an appropriate name. Dead Puffer Beach.
Puerto Los Gatos – 18 miles South
With flat seas and no wind we spent our time floating. By late afternoon an East wind picked up to 5-10k and carried the rest of the way to Puerto Los Gatos. Bright red cliff formations and large boulders surrounded the anchorage. A single coyote on shore stared at us while we anchored, as if we had interrupted something. Annoyed he turned and pranced away. The large red cliffs and rock formations were quite impressive!
By dusk two more sailboats had joined us in the anchorage. A local fisherman approached our boats offering us fresh caught lobster. Manuel threw two lobsters into our bucket and dipped it in the water. He placed the bucket back into our cockpit. I offered up a few items to “hacer un cambio” (make a trade.)
We presented Manuel with a pack of AA batteries, microwave popcorn, a few candies, four freshly baked dinner rolls and a cerveza.
Manuel accepted the batteries, popcorn, and candies. He shared that his wife would be happy with the dinner rolls. As for the beer, he declined. He wasn’t interested in the cold beer and asked for warm beer.
Me: Solamente tenemos cervezas frias. (We only have cold beer.)
He shook his head and asked if we had any Tequila. (What properly stocked galley doesn’t?)
As we prepared the shot of tequila he explained that cold beer is not good for your throat when you have a cough. Tequila is much better. We offered him a slice of lime and he accepted complimenting our choice of tequila.
Manuel: “Esta es muy buena tequila. Muy buena!” (This is very good tequila. Very good!)
He thanked us both and before he left I got his fast cooking instructions on the lobster.
Fresh Lobster (alive)
In a large pot, boil salted water.
Throw in the live lobster head first and put on the lid.
Wait 15 or 20 min until it turns bright pink.
Cut the lobster in half lengthwise.
Scoop out the good stuff.
Top with butter and salsa.
My salad tongs ended up being sufficient enough to handle the lobster. The lobster flapped its tail in a desperate attempt to flee. I shoved it in the pot and slammed on the lid. It was my first time cooking live lobster on the boat. Wait, it was my first time cooking live lobster ever! I served the lobster with a side of rice, fresh bread, melted butter, and salsa verde. It was a yummy treat!