Ensenada de los Muertos

Sailing to Esenada Los Muertos

Our 46 mile sail from Frailes to Muertos was pretty non-eventful. With our destination up wind, it seemed like we did more motor sailing more than actual sailing. But, despite the lack of wind, the sun was shining, the sky was brimming with clouds and the water was a stunning blue. We could even see our reflection!

Self Portrait in the sea

After the anchor was set, we studied the shore with our binoculars. A tip from our guide book (Sea of Cortez – by Shawn and Heather) said there was a small tequila bar and restaurant called El Cardón on shore and a water taxi to take you there. However, through the binoculars things on shore appeared lifeless. I got on the radio and hailed the restaurant. There was some silence before I heard something.

Tequila Bar: Yes?
Me: Hola, el restaurante está abierta? (Is the restaurant open?)
Tequila Bar: Sí. (yes)
Me: Hay un taxi de agua? (Is there a water taxi?)

The surf landing in Cabo San Lucas still haunted my memory.

Tequila Bar: (pause . . . ) um, Sí pero (but) it will be an hour. I have to call him to come in from town.
Me: Oh no, está bien! Tenemos nuestro dinghy. (It’s ok! We have our dinghy.)
Tequila Bar: Bueno.
Me: Gracias!

Maluhia Anchored In Los Muertos

By way of binoculars we studied the shore and decided the surf was low enough to make a beach landing. We got the outboard off our transom, transferred it to our dinghy and headed to the bar for some lunch. The bay was the perfect temperature and very calm. The pelicans were all over the fishing pangas as the boats were being pulled up the beach.

Pelicans Await Dinner

We wandered around the beach before we found the bar. At first glance inside, it too was lifeless but offered an open air feel with a great view of the bay. As we continued our early afternoon dinner things started to pick up.

Los Muertos Tequila Bar

More and more people entered the restaurant to use the free wi-fi to check the weather and get a cold drink. It was so hot that day that the only type of relief for furry cruisers was taken by passing out on the cool tile floor.

Doggie Cools Off

Eating at a muy tranquilo place like this over looking the bay, leaves you wondering how this bay ever got named Esenada de los Muertos? (Cove of the dead?) Current buzz is developers and the locals want to change the name of this place to the Bay of Dreams. Just imagine the possibilities for conversation surrounding the name. Hey, we just bought a place in Bay of the Dead and we’re dying to have you over sometime!


On our way back to our dinghy we ran into some new cruisers who spoke of their plans to leave for La Paz in the morning. (Same as us.) They wanted to know what time we were leaving. Our idea was to leave around 2 AM.  “2 AM?” they repeated, as if we were crazy. They were buddy boating with another boat who said they didn’t want to leave until after morning coffee but they were thinking of leaving with at least enough light to see fishing lines that might be lurking in the dark. Fishing lines? Yes, we always watch for them, but now they put some sort of new paranoia in our minds about watching for fishing lines and traps as we left this anchorage.  We just wanted to get around the corner before the North wind that was supposed to coming within the next 48 hours. We didn’t fully agree to buddy boating but did agree we’d both be monitoring channel 22 if we needed anything.

Anchored Aground

After returning to the boat we decided to do some snorkeling then get dinghy on the foredeck. The water was so clear we could see straight to the bottom! Just before going to bed we checked our handheld GPS which had us pictured as running aground. Is this what they mean when they say the Mexican charts are always wrong?


  • It will be interesting to see if over time you become less preoccupied with “getting there,” leave the engine off and let the wind take you where it will.

    • Interesting thought Dave. While drifting around waiting for the wind to blow us in a particular direction and adding many more hours to a sail sounds magical, there are a lot of factors for why we choose to motor towards our destination when the wind isn’t cooperating. (1. To keep our sanity, 2. Avoiding mal weather, 3. Currents and shoreline, 4. Charging the batteries and cooling the refrigerator, 5. To keep our sanity. 6. We currently have jobs we have to show up to every once in awhile and if we don’t show up they get worried.) If you get a chance please read the book Maiden Voyage by Tania Aebi. It is a wonderful book and this young woman does a lot of drifting waiting to get to her destinations because her engine dies frequently on her trip around the world. In fact one account has her in sight of land but waiting 16 days before she can get the stars to align to get into shore. PS: You’re welcome to come visit and join us sailing anytime! PPS: It’s not that warm, yet!

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